What is the exposure triangle made of? Define each of the components.
The exposure triangle are the three variables that determine the exposure of a photograph: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. To have the best exposure in one’s photograph, one must balance each of these component in order to adjust the lighting. Aperture is the depth of field so a smaller aperture would mean a shallow depth of field and a higher aperture would mean a wider depth of field. ISO is the camera’s sensitivity to light, the higher the ISO may cause the photo to be grainier. Shutter speed is how long the camera is exposed to light, the faster the shutter speed the darker the picture will get. The faster the shutter speed the faster the camera can take the photo. All these three components determine the exposure in an image.
What do each of the 3 exposure triangle components control? How are they connected to one another?
ISO: Controls the camera’s sensitivity to light. The higher the ISO the more sensitive it is to light so it the image will be brighter. On the downside if the ISO is too high that could lead to the image to be grainier.
Aperture: Controls the camera’s depth of field. The aperture controls the amount of light reaching the lens. Low aperture means a shallow depth of field, while a high aperture means a wide depth of field. Low aperture allows more light to the reach the lenses so the image is brighter. High aperture allows less light in so the image will be darker.
Shutter speed: The shutter speed is how long the camera is exposed to light –how long the camera’s shutter is open when taking a photo. How long the camera’s shutter is open is proportional to the amount of light that will reach the camera.
These three components are connected with each other because by adjusting each component will give the best exposure to the camera. You can adjust the shutter speed to make it higher so the image can be clearer, once the image is a bit darker you can make the ISO higher so that there is more light.
Use the word: EXPOSURE. What does exposure mean when discussing photography? Define underexposure as well as overexposure.
When discussing photography exposure determines how light or dark an image will appear. Exposure is one of the main aspects of photography because it determines if a picture was in the right lighting. As a photographer, exposure helps you determine the best lighting in your photograph. Underexposure is when not enough light was exposed to the camera so the image is too dark. Overexposure is when too much light was exposed to the camera so that everything is too bright and closer to white.
As a photographer, why is it important to understand how to operate your camera in Manual mode? What does this free you up to do with your camera?
As a photographer, it is important to understand how to operate in manual mode because that means you can give different effects to your photograph. Understanding manual mode means that even at night you know how to give light into your image by adjusting you ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. The main benefit is that you can be more creative with your camera in Manual mode, you can do things such as panning, motion blur, and light painting. Manual mode also allows to focus on objects that you want the camera to be focused on, not what the camera wants to focus on.
You will now select 4 of your own photos from your Flickr Manual 101 album to discuss:
Photo 1: Freezing Action
Shutter Speed: 1/3200
For my freezing action I chose the photo of a water balloon popping that we did in class. In this photograph me and my partner Jamie set up everything with a tripod and the water balloons. We set the camera on a tripod so that the only thing we had to manage was the position of the water balloon. We first auto focused on the hand and balloon then switch to manual focus and set it on lock. We needed the background to be a solid color or a darker color so that the water would appear clearer. In the photograph, I had my ISO very higher because I had set my shutter speed extremely high. I set my aperture very low because I wanted a blurry background so that the only focus was the water balloon and a bit of the hand. The end result of the photograph, I was very satisfied because not only was the photograph super clear but we captured the different stages of the water balloon bursting. The balloon was centered in the middle (composition guidelines) so we could see all the directions the water would burst from.
Photo 2: Motion Blur
Shutter Speed: 1
The day was very windy and spring has just sprung so the leaves outside my window had started to sprout. It was windy that the branches started to shake that I thought I needed to take a photo of the motion of the leaves. The result made the leaves were glitching which I thought was really nice. When I looked at the photograph it seemed that it was the start of a story or the start of a music video. I set my shutter speed to one second because I didn’t want all the movement of the leaves but only slight movement to give it that motion effect. Because I send the shutter speed to one second (low shutter speed) I had to have a very high aperture so that the image was not overexposed. I also set the ISO to 100 so that photo had even light. I did not have a tripod on me, so I just rested my arms on my table to steady the camera. I used the branches as leading lines because the branches would intersect each other. I manually focused on the branches because I wanted the focus to be all of the branches. Because I set the shutter speed at one second I had set the aperture very high. It was also a very sunny day so I wanted to show the contrast between the branches and the blue sky. I used the principle of design of light and shadows to be able to contrast the different tones between the branches and the sky.
Photo 3: Panning
Shutter Speed: 1/15
For my panning picture I chose this photo that I took of black car in London. I really like the aftereffect of the photo because it reminded me of a scene of a car commercial where they make the car looks super-fast and sleek. I set my aperture to about 1/15 of a second because it was a fast object so I did not need the aperture too close to 1/6 of a second. I did not have a tripod because I needed to follow the car’s path. I tried to give space to moving objects so I left more space on the left side of the photo so the audience could see that the car is moving in the left direction. I had set this autofocus because that way I would know at least majority of the car would be in focus in each picture. The background of the car did give it that motion look so I was satisfied with that effect. Because I set the shutter speed very low that would mean the picture would have more light. That is why I kept the ISO at 100 so that the image could be darker, as well as making my aperture at f/36 to also make the image darker. I wanted to make the image slightly darker so that the lights of the cars could be shown.
Photo 4: Shallow depth of field
Shutter Speed: 1/10
In this photo was taken for my friend’s birthday party. She requested a photographer so I brought my camera to take some photos. I set my camera in manual mode with manual focus so that I could make the camera focus on her face and not the lights or the background. I also set the color temperature cooler because the lighting in the room was very yellow so I had to balance out the yellow. If I could go back, I would set the temperature to be even cooler because I still think the photo is a bit too yellow. I set the aperture very low (f/6.3) so that I could make the subject’s background blurry so that the main focus had to be her. I focus the camera on the foreground but not that lights so that fairy lights could give a slight flare to the camera lens. By manually focusing the camera on her face then her hand would be blurry so that it did not take away from the main focus. I zoomed in my camera so that I could frame her face and have the photo be very simple. The lights are the secondary focus but more are there to enhance her face. The color scheme was more of a cool and beige tone with only the lights being a different tone.
Shutter Speed: 1/160
This photo was taken on my trip to London the background is part of the Winsor Castle. I manually focused the lens onto the tiny tree branch because I wanted that to be the main focus. However, if I could go back I would try to focus it on the main branch not only on the small portion of the branch because the camera did not focus on the flower buds. I used the composition guidelines by using the rule of thirds and placing the branch of the right third so that it gave space to the rest of the photo. I also used the principle of color to give contrast between the blue of the sky and the pink of the flower bud. I sent my aperture very low so that it gave that blurry background, however I wish I made the aperture a bit higher so that the whole branch was in focus. My ISO was relatively low so that I could bring the color of the sky bluer because it was a very cloudy day in London that day.